Peru Day 11: Paracas–This entry was written on May 18, 2006
We got up early for our boat ride to the Ballestas islands today. Unfortunately, there was no water in the room, so the hotel gave us the key to another bungalow so we could shower.
The boat ride was quite calm, but the stench of the birds made all of our stomachs a bit sour. Ick! There were a great many birds on the islands–Humboldt penguins, Incan Terns, Heron, Turkey Vultures, and some other birds I don’t recall. They were quite impressive. The whole top face of one of the islands looked like it was composed of loose, black, rock, but on closer inspection, the surface was moving. There were so many birds so closely packed in the colony that they defined the surface of the island.
We also saw a bunch of sea lions. At this time of year, there were a lot of pups, just a few months old, frolicking in the water and on the shores. I hope I managed to get some nice pictures, but I tried to concentrate more on the experience itself than on getting good pictures.
After we got back, we relaxed a bit around the bungalow, listening to the sounds of the waves lap at the shore of the Paracas Bay, reading a book beneath the palm trees, and generally enjoying our vacation. But we didn’t sit around long–we then went to another part of the reserve, in the middle of the desert.
Peru is a land of contrasts. Just a couple of minutes from the green grass and palm trees of our oceanside paradise is the desert. Just sand and rocks as far as the eyer can see. What water there is is the saltwater of the sea, washing up against a vast, barren sea of sand.
Although the desert itself was void of any vegetation, there were some animals. The flamingos had started to come down from the Andes for their winter. They were too far away from the lookout tower for me to get any devent pictures, but I could see them fairly clearly through the binoculars. Apparently they really do stand on just one leg!
These flamingos were also a bit different from the Florida variety–they had white feathers with just a band of pink. Apparently they don’t eat all the shrimp that the Floridians get, so their coats don’t turn the same color.
As we were watching the flamingos, we got a special treat. We saw a shadow pass us on the ground, and as we looked up, we saw a condor circling overhead. As we looked closer, we discovered that there were actually three of them, just gliding on the air currents. They were close enough that we were able to make a positive identification, but by the time I thought to get out my camera, the wind currents had pushed them so high up that they were mere specks in the bright midday sky.
The condor is so close to extinction that I doubt I’ll ever have the chance to see one in the wild again, even if I should return to Peru. But there is some hope–these three birds were small enough that they were probably fairly young. Let’s hope the population can rise again, just as have so many of the endangered species in Peru. Everywhere we’ve gone, we’ve seen such a serious conservation effort that I wouldn’t have expected in a country with so much poverty. But the people here seem to genuinely care.
Finally, we went to Cathedral Rock, a natural formation along the coast that resembles a steeple and flying buttress. Geologists estimate that the structure has been formed over the past 30-40 million years by the natural erosion of the wind, water, and sand against the rock. Pretty cool. With that, we returned to Lima, where well spend the rest of our time in Peru, before flying back home.